![]() Then along comes Corey Lee gamely speaking its name.Īt Benu in San Francisco’s SoMa neighborhood, Lee earned three Michelin stars for a wildly original tasting menu. Imitation is the open secret of chef culture. Ingredients, techniques and even dishes that once seemed innovative snowball through kitchens and inevitably stale along the way: the cult of kale spare, Nordic plating things on toast. Eat in enough restaurants in enough cities, and you get the sense that the food world is engaged in a demented game of telephone. ![]()
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